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A wave rider who found his purpose by the Atlantic Ocean

It is interesting where life can take someone who, as a teenager, experienced immense joy and freedom, first on a snowboard and later on a surfboard. Kostja Polc from the Gorenjska region was so addicted to surfing that throughout his years of studying economics with the intention of pursuing a conventional business career, he yearned for a life by the sea doing surfing tricks. He followed his heart and now lives with his family in Portugal, on the Atlantic Coast.
It is an incredible feeling when you graze water with your hand or when you enter a water tube. For me, there was nothing better and I devoted myself to surfing.   

"When I was 13, I stepped on a snowboard for the first time. I was spellbound by the way of doing turns on a snowboard. The sensation of brushing my hand against the snow was fascinating. About five years later I tried surfing and it was even better. It is an incredible feeling when you graze water with your hand or when you enter a water tube. For me, there was nothing better, so I devoted myself to surfing. At first, it was just a recreational activity while I was a student, but that was not enough for me. I travelled a lot around Europe for surfing. Then I went on a student exchange to Lisbon and discovered new dimensions of this sport. Nevertheless, I first finished my studies in economics and found a job as a financial analyst, but I was not very happy," explains Kostja, who was also a member of Ujusansa, the first Slovenian surf club.

From economics to the sea

"I taught surfing at our club's summer courses. But I had a great yearning for this to become my way of life, and I was prepared to do whatever it took to make it happen. I went to Lisbon, found a flat there, which I shared with five friends I met during the Erasmus exchange. The first job I found was in telephone sales, as they needed somebody who spoke Slovenian and English. Then they decided that the Slovenian market was too small and uninteresting, so they redirected me to the English market. Unfortunately, it didn't work out and I left the job after one week," he describes his first obstacle on the Iberian Peninsula.

A man standing next to a white van.

Kostja Polc has been living and working by the Atlantic Ocean for over fifteen years. | Author Personal archives

"In 2010, it was very difficult to get a job in the financial sector due to the recent global crisis. My then girlfriend, who is now my wife, Maša, left her job at home and followed me to Portugal. She encouraged me to start a surfing school. We partnered with a friend, found a house by the sea and started a bed and breakfast. I bought a few surfboards, neoprene suits and a van. For the first year, we all lived together in the house I mentioned. We were driven by our passion for the sport and for life by the sea. I was pursuing my dream and didn't concern myself with the question of whether it would work out."

The Portuguese are very price-conscious, regardless of the quality of the product or service. For them, 95% of a purchase decision depends on the price.

Because his intentions were sincere, it did work out. Together with his wife and business partners, which in the last few years have included his sister, he runs a renowned surfing school Surf2Smile in the village of Praia da Areia Branca. Sport enthusiasts from all over the world come to the school. Their home is the seaside village of Praia da Areia Branca with roughly 1,000 inhabitants, about 70 kilometres north of Lisbon. The nearest larger town is Lourinha, 10 kilometres away, with a population of 9,000. The entire municipality has the population of 25,000.

In Praia da Areia Branca, which means "a white sand beach", Kostja carries out his mission. Working and living in rural Portugal really fulfils him. "Fortunately, in surfing I don't have to deal with the Portuguese much. Most of my guests come from other European countries, which is a great advantage for me. The Portuguese are very price-conscious, regardless of the quality of the product or service. For them, 95% of a purchase decision depends on the price. Americans, for example, are quite the opposite. They first want to know about the service and experience, only then they ask about the price. I find it hard to work with customers like the Portuguese because I like to do good work and take responsibility for providing the best possible service. The Portuguese competition offers as much as 30% discount, but the quality of their service and their attitude toward customers cannot compare with ours. I see my business as my mission, I identify with surfing. I am in good shape and can easily keep up even in the high season in summer months, when we really have a lot of work," Kostja describes his view of the surfing tribe.

There are no borders on a wave and in the sun

One reason he never runs out of energy is that he lives and works in a supportive environment. "I like the lifestyle here. It is slower, more relaxed. People take time for each other, pay more attention to others. They take their time to socialise, talk with each other, there is less of a rush during lunch and therefore less stress. I see this in our guests, who come here and reset. They take time for themselves and their loved ones, and for the people around them. This, for me, is ultimately the meaning of life. As regards our guests, I still collaborate with the Ujusansa club, so our compatriots are regular guests here. The Italians are very lively, while the Dutch, the Danes and the Germans are more reserved, but all this balances out on the wave and in the sun. Positive feelings and adventure on the waves bring together even vastly different people. Nationalities blur, and everybody is happy and relaxed," says 43-year-old Kostja, describing the essence of an active holiday.

A view of the beach with the ocean in the background.

A surfing paradise on the Atlantic coast. | Author Personal archives

The surfing season starts at Easter and lasts until the beginning or the middle of November. "I love working outdoors, on the water. Now I can also decide for myself when and how much to work. Since covid, I have reduced my workload a bit. I am responsible for the surfing school and marketing, which primarily involves acquiring customers. Our colleague has a hostel with 30 beds. Three years ago my sister moved here too, and now she runs her own guesthouse with 12 beds. She also serves meals, mostly vegan and vegetarian. In Slovenia, she graduated in medicine. She started working in her profession, but soon realised that it was not for her. She found a psychotherapy study programme in Lisbon and she also works in tourism," Kostja describes his family's entrepreneurial endeavours.

Family joys

Family comes first. Kostja admits that the way of life where he can devote a lot of time and attention to his loved ones is why he put down roots in Portugal. "My son Nikola is nine and my daughter Maja is seven. They both go to school 200 metres from our home. Before that, they went to a public kindergarten, which children start when they are three years old. It is free of charge, parents only pay for food. In this regard, primary schooling is similar to that in Slovenia. We pay for lunch and take care of snacks for the children. Nikola and Maja are the true Portuguese. Especially Nikola speaks better Portuguese than Slovenian. In Slovenian he stumbles here and there. Based on our experience, I would say that the quality of education in Portugal is not so as good as in Slovenia. Recently, there have been frequent unannounced strikes by teachers, who are dissatisfied with their wages and work conditions. The Slovenian education system is much better organised and has richer programmes," opines Kostja.

Most often we go south to Algarve, but we love the Alentejo region the most. It is less well-known but has beautiful scenery.

"At their current age, my children need my attention, so I am so much happier that I have more free time to spend with my family. Maša has found her place in her activities. She is a feng shui expert and teaches and lectures on Chinese astrology. When we have enough free time, which is during the holidays around New Year, Easter or just before the high tourist season, we travel around Portugal in a motorhome. Most often we go south to Algarve, but we love the Alentejo region the most. It is less well-known but it has beautiful scenery. You can really find peace there and I recommend a trip to this region to friends who want to get away from everything," says Kostja.

Visiting Slovenia after eight years

Portugal is famous for its good food and excellent wine. "Of course, seafood is at the forefront. But the Portuguese culture of eating and socialising is worth the praise even more than the food. They take their time for a meal, as well as conversation. Relaxation and social interaction are a constant in their life. I am not a particular fan of alcoholic drinks or a wine connoisseur, but I like the wines from the Alentejo region, which are quite sweet and high in alcohol. Lately, I have switched to the wines from the Porto region, because they are lighter," says Kostja who is an athlete at heart. Living by the ocean, he does not miss Slovenian winters or swishing down snowy slopes. "I have become a jiu-jitsu enthusiast of late. At first, I took the wrong approach because this sport is all about technique. You don't get far with just muscles. This was quite a blow to my ego as an athlete. But I had soon internalised this and now I train three to four times a week," he reveals his passion for this martial art. He also confirmed that there are several regions in Portugal that attract road cyclists and that the country has long been a magnet for golfers due to its climate and top-notch golf courses: "About 20 kilometres from us is a golf resort with a Marriott hotel and another golf course is being built even closer."

He deliberately avoids news about the political situation in this former colonial superpower. He is also not interested in football, which is sacred to the Portuguese. He is faithful to the fundamental values that fulfil him in the company of his family. He would not trade his life with the ocean and the freedom he feels when surfing, brushing the mighty waves with his hand, for anything in the world. "My wife and I have occasionally thought about what it would be like to go back to Slovenia, but the idea faded quickly. Our son Nikola loves Slovenia and enjoys spending time in Kranjska Gora with my mother and with my wife's parents. Who knows, maybe he will go to Slovenia to study. In June, I went to Slovenia for the first time in eight years. Maša and the children go almost every year in the high season, when I am very busy. I have never seriously considered going back. Life here really suits us," says Kostja Polc, a wave rider who has found his purpose in life.